Beach Bunting: adding beads and shells

Inspired by Attic24’s Dune Blanket.

I used:

Beading Needle

Silamide waxed nylon beadstring

Seed beads: here is a link to some similar to the ones I used.

Swarovski crystals:  I used 3mm bicone clear AB crystals, although I’m not sure where you can get them from nowadays

Semi-precious gem stones

and some shells with holes in them – gathered from the beach.

Put a knot in the end of the beadstring and attach to the bottom of the triangle at the back, sew a knot by taking the needle through a loop and exit at the very tip.

Add a crystal, a bead or semi-precious stone, a crystal and a seed bead, then take the thread through the hole in the shell

and back up through the beads and crystals and into the point of the bunting triangle.

Fasten off at the back

And there you have it! Some seaside bunting

Inspired by Attic24’s Dune Blanket

Find the pattern for the Triangles here.

and

The photo tutorial for making the triangles into bunting here.

Let me know if you have a go at making some Beachy Bunting, I’d love to know how you get on.

Advertisement

Beach Baby Bunting

This post follows on from the previous post: Knitted Bunting where you will find the free pattern for the triangles.

It is inspired by the Attic24 Dune Blanket colours. Wouldn’t this bunting go SO well with a baby blanket in the Dune design. AND how about making a little jacket (see my free Baby Jacket pattern here)  in Dune colours too – ooooo – mouthwateringly delicious!

I have used Stylecraft Special DK: Spearmint, Cloud Blue, Pale Rose, Parma Violet, Powder Pink, Duck Egg and Spearmint.

Joining the triangles and making them into Bunting

Line up all the triangles on a 4mm needle in the order you want them to be, with Right Sides facing.

DO NOT CUT THE YARN OF THE LAST TRIANGLE

Working on the last triangle: Cast off purlwise.

until the last stitch

* Turn your work so that you have the Wrong Side facing you.

Knit one stitch

Put the stitch just knitted onto the left hand needle and knit one. Repeat 8 more times to create a joining chain of 10 stitches altogether.

(Add more chains if you want your triangles further apart)Turn your work so that you have the RS facing.

Bring the yarn to the front and cast off the next triangle purlwise

Repeat from * across all the triangles.

 

When you have cast off across the top of the last triangle make a chain as long as you want it to be, for hanging up your bunting.

I have done a chain of 30 stitches.

Join yarn to the first triangle and make a matching chain.

Sew in all the ends.

Here is the pre-blocked bunting

Now to block and add some beads and/or shells.

I have had these beads for years.  The supplier I bought them from no longer exists but I found these semi-precious gemstone chips online which are similar.

The shells have been collected over time, from lots of different far flung beaches.

The pattern is untested – please let me know how you get on.

Here is a post about attaching the beads and shells.

Knitted Bunting

There seems to be a bit of bunting fever on the net.

Lucy Attic is making some, Eleonora has made some new seaside themed bunting for Little Box of Crochet, and she has other patterns on Ravelry and Wendy of Red Brick Glass is busy making some for the upcoming Purbeck Arts Week.

No wonder then, that as I was making some more Pixie Points to start a new jacket like my Flower Fairy Baby Jacket  that I started to think of bunting.

Bunting in Lucy Attic’s latest Dune colours.

I’m thinking of attaching some shells to the bottom of each triangle.

This is work in progress, and I have not worked out how I’m going to attach the triangles together yet, but in case you would like to make some yourself here is the pattern for the triangles.

They measure 3.5 inches across the top and are 4.5 inches long.

Bunting Triangle

Cast on 1 st.

Row 1(WS) inc one st by knitting into this st twice. (2sts)

Row 2 K

Row 3 yon, K2 (3sts)

Row 4 yon, K1, yfwd, K2 (5st)

Row 5 yon, K2tog, P1, K2

Row 6 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 7 yon, K2tog, P1, K2

Row 8 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2 (7sts)

Row 9 yon, K2tog, K1, P1, K3

Row 10 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 11 yon, K2tog, K1, P1, K3

Row 12 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2 (9sts)

Row 13 yon, K2tog, K2, P1, K4

Row 14 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 15 yon, K2tog, K2, P1, K4

Row 16 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2tog tbl, yfwd, K2 (11sts)

Row 17 yon, K2tog, K2, P3, K4

Row 18 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 19 yon, K2tog, K2, P3, K4

Row 20 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K2, yfwd, K2tog tbl, yfwd, K2 (13sts)

Row 21 yon, K2tog, K2, P5, K4

Row 22 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 23 yon, K2tog, K2, P5, K4

Row 24 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K2, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (15sts)

Row 25 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K3, P2, K4

Row 26 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 27 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K3, P2, K4

Row 28 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K4, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (17sts)

Row 29 yon, K2tog, K2, P9, K4

Row 30 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 31 yon, K2tog, K2, P9, K4

Row 32 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K6, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (19sts)

Row 33 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K7, P2, K4

Row 34 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 35 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K7, P2, K4

Row 36 K

Row 37 P

Cut yarn and put onto a Size 8 needle, Right Side facing.

Do not cut the yarn on the last triangle you make

Make sure all the triangles are lined up in the order you want with Right Sides facing.

~~~~~~

Photo Tutorial for joining the triangles can be found here.

And

Adding the shells and beads here.

Free Knitting Pattern:Flower Fairy Baby

This little jacket design has been inspired by a pattern in this book

The publishers have kindly given me permission to adapt the pattern with the proviso that I share the source.

The colours of this version of mine have been inspired by the Sweet Pea Cal colours designed by Lucy of Attic24.

I shared the Pixie Point Hat Pattern with you here.

Size: Newborn – 3 months old

There is a pattern for the Jacket for aged 1-2 years old in my Ravelry and Etsy Shops.

So here goes – the pattern for the

Sweet Pea Flower Fairy Jacket

(So far untested, so please let me know how you get on)

The pattern is entirely knitted. The pixie points and cuffs are knitted.

Materials:

Size 13 (2¼mm) (only needed if you are making knitted buttons)

10 (3¼mm), 9 (3¾ mm) and long Size 8 (4mm) Needles or a circular needle, 2 small stitch holders (or safety pins)

Gauge: 22st and 29 rows for a 10cm, 4 inch square using Size 8 or 4mm needles in stst.

Approx 150 gm Stylecraft Special DK yarn

This pattern can be made in all one colour.

The colours I used:

Cypress, Meadow, Pistachio, Clematis, Wisteria, Bluebell (Lucy uses Lavender) , Violet, Fuchsia Purple, Pomegranate, Blush, Candy Floss, Soft Peach, Cream.

Abbreviations:

St         stitch                           dec      decrease

WS      wrong side                  inc       increase                                  K          knit

RS       right side                     yon      yarn over needle                P          purl

Yfwd   yarn forward              K2tog   knit 2 together                  tbl          through back of loop

Stst      stocking stitch             SlP       slip one st purlwise                 rpt        repeat

Mk1      make one st by picking up loop between sts and k into back of st

 

The Hem is made up of 9 V-points

V Pattern.

With Size 9 needles in Cypress:

Cast on 1 st.

Row 1(WS) inc one st by knitting into this st twice. (2sts)

Row 2 K

Row 3 yon, K2 (3sts)

Row 4 yon, K1, yfwd, K2 (5st)

Row 5 yon, K2tog, P1, K2

Row 6 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 7 yon, K2tog, P1, K2

Row 8 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2 (7sts)

Row 9 yon, K2tog, K1, P1, K3

Row 10 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 11 yon, K2tog, K1, P1, K3

Row 12 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2 (9sts)

Row 13 yon, K2tog, K2, P1, K4

Row 14 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 15 yon, K2tog, K2, P1, K4

Row 16 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, yfwd, K2tog tbl, yfwd, K2 (11sts)

Row 17 yon, K2tog, K2, P3, K4

Row 18 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 19 yon, K2tog, K2, P3, K4

(stop here for the 2 smallest points)

Row 20 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K2, yfwd, K2tog tbl, yfwd, K2 (13sts)

Row 21 yon, K2tog, K2, P5, K4

Row 22 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 23 yon, K2tog, K2, P5, K4

(stop here for 2 of the points, 2^ndsize)

Row 24 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K2, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (15sts)

Row 25 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K3, P2, K4

Row 26 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 27 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K3, P2, K4

(stop here for 2 of the points, 3^rdsize)

Row 28 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K4, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (17sts)

Row 29 yon, K2tog, K2, P9, K4

Row 30 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 31 yon, K2tog, K2, P9, K4

(stop here for 2 points, 4^thsize)

Row 32 yon, K2tog, yfwd, K2, yfwd, K2tog, K6, yfwd, K2tog tbl, K1, yfwd, K2 (19sts)

Row 33 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K7, P2, K4

Row 34 yon, K2tog, K to end

Row 35 yon, K2tog, K2, P2, K7, P2, K4

(make just one, largest size, for the centre back)

 

Arrange the V patterns, RS facing on to Size 8 (4mm) needle in the following order:

11st, 13st, 15st, 17st, 19st, 17st, 15st, 13st, 11st. = 131sts

Do not break the yarn of the last 11st V Point.

Make sure all the points are lined up in order with RSs facing.

(The first st of each row from now on is slipped purlwise to create a neat selvedge)

 

Keeping the tension firm, join the V-patterns:

Row 1: SlP, K to end.

Row 2: SlP, K3, P5 , K4, P9, K4, P11, K4, P13, K4, P15, K4, P13, K4, P11,K4, P9, K4, P5, K4 (131sts)

Row 3: SlP, K to end.

Row 4:SlP, K3, P6, K2, P11, K2, P13, K2, P15, K2, P17, K2, P15, K2, P13, K2, P11, K2, P6, K4.

131sts

Keeping the selvedge and garter st border on both sides, work 22 rows stst.

7 rows of Meadow, 5 rows of Pistachio, 4 rows of Clematis, 3 rows of Wisteria, 3 rows of Bluebell

(Start decreasing towards waistline:)

Next Row: RS in Violet.

SlP, K14, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K9, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K11, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K13, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K13, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K11, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K9, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K to end.

(117sts)

Working the edges as before work 2 rows stst in Violet.

Change to Fuchsia Purple and work 3 rows stst

(5 rows st st. in all)

Change to Pomegranate

Next Row: RS

SlP, K13, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K7, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K9, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K11, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K11, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl , K9, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K7, K2tog, K1, K2tog tbl, K to end.

(103sts)

Working edges as before, work 2 rows stst in Pomegranate,

4rows stst in Blush, one row in Candy Floss

(7 rows stst in all)

Change to size 10 needles.

[To Make the buttonholes:

on the right hand side of the Jacket with RS facing: SlP, K1, yfwd, K2tog, K to end.

Work 7 rows.

In the next Row, make another buttonhole.

Work 7 rows.

In the next Row, make another buttonhole.

3 buttonholes in total.

[I hope this means one buttonhole in the Candyfloss stripe, one in the Soft Peach stripe and one in the Cream, I have not made one with buttonholes yet, I will make button loops for mine]

Work 4 more rows stst in Candy Floss, and 4 rows in Soft Peach

(8 rows stst worked on Size10 needles in all)

Change to size 8 needles

Work 3 rows more st st. in Soft Peach. (7 rows in all in Soft Peach)

Change to Cream and work in Cream from now on.

Work one row.

Bodice:

Next Row: RS

SlP, K23, cast off 4 sts, K46, (there will be 47 sts on the needle in this section)

Cast off 4 sts, K to end.

Left Bodice: SlP, K3, P to end.

Wind off 14gm of wool from another ball and join wool to the set of 47sts and cont in st.st.

Join yarn to Right Front and P to last 4 sts, K to end.

Work across all three sections in st st for 5 rows, keeping selvedges and garter st borders.

Shaping the fronts:

Row A:

Right Front (RF): SlP, K3, K2togtbl, K to end.

Back (B): K

Left Front (LF): K to the last 6 sts, K2tog, K4.

 

Row B:

LF: SlP, K3, P to end.                           B: P                              RF: P to last 4 sts, K.

Row C:

RF: SlP, K to end                                 B: K                             LF: K

Row D:

LF: SlP, K3, P to end.                         B: P                              RF: P to last 4 sts, K.

 

Repeat the last 4 rows once

RF: 22sts                B: 47sts              LF:22sts

 

Keeping garter st and selvedges repeat Rows A and B until RF and LF have 17 sts.

Next Row: Right Side facing,

RF: SlP, K3, K2togtbl, K to end

B:   K16, K2togtbl, K1, K2tog, K5, K2togtbl, K1, K2tog, K to end.

LF: K to the last 6sts, K2tog, K4.

Next Row: as Row B

Next Row: as Row A.

(Armholes measures about 10cm)

Next Row:

LF: Slp, K3, P to end.

Fold LF back so that the RS is next to the RS of the back and with a 3 needle cast off, cast off 6 sts. Put remaining 8sts of LF on to a stitch holder (or safety pin).

B: P

RF: Fold RF so that the RS faces the RS of the Back and with a 3 needle cast off, cast off 6 sts. Put remaining 8 sts of RF on a stitch holder.

 

K across the Back, and then working across the 8 sts from the LF stitch holder, K2, K2tog, K2.

Next Row: SlP, K3, P to end of the Back, and work across the 8 sts from the stitch holder: P4, K4.

46 sts

Collar

Change to number 10 needles and SlP and K to the end of the row.

Starting with a P row, work 8 rows of stst. (without the garter st edge)

Sleeves

Size 10 needles.

Cuff edging: Picot Point Chain:

If doing the Sweet Pea Colourway, Start with Candy Floss

Cast on 6sts using cable method.

* Cast off 4 sts, slip the st. on RH needle onto LH needle, cast on 5 sts* rpt from * to * until you have 28sts on needle.

Next row: K

Sweet Pea: change to Clematis and work one row P, one row K

Change to Cypress

Work 1 row P

Moss st for 8 rows.

Change to size 9 needles and continue in st st.

Sweet Pea: Work next 4 rows in Meadow, 2 rows Pistachio, 3 rows Wisteria,

Next row: K

Next Row: P

MK1 st each end of the next and following alt K rows.

After 10 rows using No 9 needles, change to size 8 and cont in st st and continue increasing at beg and end of every alternate knit row.

For a straight sleeve: Continue in this way in stst and increasing on alt K rows until there are 44 sts.

Increase each end of every K row until there are 48 sts.

Next Row: P

Next row: Cast off

Sleeve measures approx. 16cm (6¼”)

Buttons (optional)

Make 3 buttons.

With size 13 needles cast on 3 sts

Knit into front and back of each st. 6sts.

K 2 rows.

Next row K into front and back of first st., K3, K into front and back of next st., K1. 8sts.

Next row K

Next row: K2tog, K4, K2tog. 6sts

K 2 rows

Next row: (K2tog) 3 times.

Cast off.

Thread the end of the yarn around the edge of the work and pull thread tight to form a ‘ball’ and fasten off. Leave long thread for securing onto the jacket.

Making Up

I sew in the ends diagonally at the back, they are less obvious that way.

Sew the sleeve seams together, making sure the colour stripes match. I like to sew them with the same colour using mattress stitch from the Right Side.

Pin the sleeves into the armholes, Right sides together, with the sleeve seam slightly to the back, so that it does not show at the front. Pin and sew using a back stitch.

Sew on the buttons opposite the button holes.

 

Ta Dah!

The Cocheted flower on the Bluebell hat is a pattern Flora Flower designed by Lucy.

I do hope you have enjoyed this pattern.

Please let me know if you have any difficulties.

You can buy a patten for a toddler size here.

Free Pattern: Pixie Hat

This is for a newborn – 3 month old baby

The pattern has been tested by Tialys, pop across to see her beautifully stylish version made especially for her new great-nephew. Thank you Tialys!

Hat

Materials:

Stylecraft Special DK, Needles: Size 9 (3.75mm) and Size 8 (4mm)

Abbreviations:

yrn           yarn round needle

stst           stocking stitch

K2tog      knit two together

 

Starting at the rim of the hat, using Size 9 (3.75mm) needles and Lavender

Cast on 73sts

Next Row: K

Next Row: P1, (yrn, P2 tog) to the end.

Starting with a K row, work 6 rows of stst.

Change to no 8 needles and Cypress

Next Row: K

9 rows moss st.

Change to Meadow

Starting with a K row, work in stst

After two rows change to Pistachio

Continue in stst until work measures 9.5 cm (straighten out st st border to measure) ending with a P row.

Next Row: (K8, K2tog) to the last 3 sts, K3

Stst 3 rows

Next Row: (K7, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3.

Stst 3 rows

Next Row: (K6, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3.

Next row: P

Next Row: (K5, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3.

Next Row: P

Next Row: (K4, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3.

Next Row: P

Next Row: (K3, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3.

Next Row: P

Next Row: (K2, K2tog) to last 3sts, K3.                                  24 sts

Next Row: P

Next row (K1, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3

Next Row: P

Shape Point

Next row: K5, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K5

Next Row: P

Next row: K3, (K2tog, K2) x3

Next Row: P

Next row K1, (K2 tog, K2) x2,  K2tog, K1.         9sts

Next Row: P

Next row (K1, K2tog) x3

Next Row: P

Next row K2tog x 3

Next Row: P

Next row K3 tog

Break yarn and pull through leaving at least 30cm for sewing up.

 

To Make Up

1. Sew from the point to the rim in mattress stitch, working on the reverse side for the stst of the curled rim.

Copyright: Sandra Dorey

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I am happy for you to sell anything you make using my patterns. It would be great if you could credit me as the designer.

I’d love to see photos of what you make. You can tag them on Instagram.          #wilddaffodilpixie

Please respect my pattern, it is for your own use. Please do not pass it on to anyone else except by a link to this post – thank you.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you try the pattern I’d love to know how you get on. Feedback most welcome.

Would you like a Pixie Point Jacket to go with it?

Here is a link to the free pattern: Flower Fairy Jacket with Pixie Points